| Howth’s wonderful walks |
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| Thursday, 29 May 2008 | |
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AS WE head into the hopefully balmy months of summer one area can be relied on to provide Northsiders with a sense of tranquillity, wonderful views, places to walk and an ocean swim.
Howth holds a special place in many a Northsider’s heart - and rightly so. However, there are some areas of Howth that are not all that well known and maybe even a little bit off the beaten track. They are, in my opinion, all the better for this. Howth Castle and the area that surrounds it is a very magical place, a fact that was not lost on a host of well-known authors and personages including James Joyce who mentioned the area in both Ulysses and Finnegan’s Wake. HG Welles, author of the classic Time Machine, described the uninterrupted vista of spectacular coastline that can be seen from Mush Rock, high above Howth Castle, as being “the finest view west of Naples”. But how do we get to Mush Rock? Well, if you’re travelling by DART simply take a left when you leave Howth station and walk approximately 500 metres until you come to the entrance to Howth Castle. Then make your way up to the Deerpark Hotel. You’ll find a gateway at the back of the hotel that will lead you up along the magnificent Rhododendron walk. This is wonderful walk with the Rhododendrons bursting forth with their luscious hues of purple and magenta. As you steadily climb up through the rhododendrons you will eventually come to Mush Rock. When you have scaled Mush Rock your reward will be a near 360 degrees view of Dublin Bay and the Mourne Mountains to the north - HG Welles was right, it is a magnificent vista and is well worth the climb. Howth Castle is owned by the St Lawrence family. After having one of their children kidnapped by the buccaneering Mayo woman Grace O'Malley in Tudor times - because, she said, they had withheld hospitality from her - the St Lawrence’s established the custom of laying an extra place at dinner for any stranger who might appear, and of keeping the gates of the castle open. This is a tradition that is said to exist to this day in the castle’s dinning room. The Castle’s demesne in itself is a very interesting place to visit and many day-trippers wonder where the pungent smell they get in the air comes from. I can tell you – it’s wild garlic. This green, leafy plant grows around the estate and is very good to eat, especially in soups and salads. Local kids tell stories of gorging on the wild garlic and being sent home from school as a result. The aroma was too much for teachers to bear! There is a large reservoir in the castle’s grounds that used to supply water for the estate and its workers. It is now incorporated into the Deerpark Golf course. After you’re finished your perambulations around the castle you could head into Howth Village where Johnny Cooke will serve you up a wonderfully fresh ice cream from Ann’s shop on the promenade, or maybe you fancy a spot of lunch or dinner. Howth is festooned with new restaurants, but why not pay John Aungier a visit in Casta Pasta, one of Howth’s oldest restaurants but still great value and wonderful food. Maybe a bit of liquid refreshment is your fancy? Then drop into The Pier House where Mick Dowd will pull you the perfect pint of stout. Or how about an early morning visit to ‘The Bottom Shop’ on the promenade, Howth’s only early morning pub and a favourite with the harbour’s hard-working fishermen. Next week Niall will introduce readers to the wonders of a walk along Howth’s cliffs and a visit to Howth’s secret swimming places. |
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